Collection F arrived without a runway, shown to a handful of journalists in a Paris showroom in July and refreshed online last week, and it reads like a wardrobe edited rather than designed.
Philo’s talent has always been for the garment that looks ordinary until it is worn, when the cut reveals itself at the shoulder and the hip.
Backward jackets and dropped crotches are difficult propositions for a customer trained on the flattering and the immediate.
The iron, applied here and there for creases and sheen, is her signature joke: polish as a form of soul.
Collection F argues that the most radical thing a designer can offer now is clothing that requires no explanation, only repetition.
