Meryll Rogge, the Belgian designer who took the helm at Marni in 2025, will present the first menswear collection for her eponymous label during Paris Men’s Fashion Week this season. The move extends a banner year for Rogge, who has been steadily building her own brand since founding it in 2020 while simultaneously reshaping one of Italian fashion’s most idiosyncratic houses.
The collection’s timing, during a season defined by major debuts at Celine and Givenchy, places Rogge in good company. Her menswear may be the most intimate offering on a calendar otherwise dominated by brand-scale productions.
Rogge’s women’s collections for her namesake label have been defined by a particular kind of tenderness — softened tailoring, draped jersey pieces, and a muted color palette that feels lifted from a Flemish painting. Translating that sensibility into menswear presents an interesting challenge: how to maintain the emotional register without sacrificing the structural clarity that men’s wear demands.
The answer, based on preview imagery and show notes, lies in proportion. Rogge has approached the men’s collection by enlarging her signature silhouettes rather than borrowing from traditional menswear templates. Jackets gain volume through the body rather than the shoulder. Trousers are cut wide and long, pooling at the shoe. The effect is a wardrobe that feels protective rather than restrictive — a quality that resonates with the current cultural mood.
