Hermès presented its Spring/Summer 2027 menswear collection on June 27, a studio-designed offering that serves as a bridge between the departure of Véronique Nichanian and the arrival of Grace Wales Bonner in January 2027. The show was notably restrained — a deliberate choice that respected the house’s tradition of understatement while signaling the transition underway.
Nichanian retired in 2025 after more than three decades at the helm of Hermès menswear, establishing a legacy of quiet, nearly invisible luxury. Her successor, Grace Wales Bonner, brings a different register — one informed by Black diaspora aesthetics, archival research, and a more overtly intellectual approach to dressing. The interim collection, designed by the house’s in-house studio, does not try to anticipate Bonner’s direction. Instead, it reaffirms the foundational codes: saddle-stitched leather, tightly woven cottons, and a silhouette that prizes ease over statement.
The palette ran through caramel, écru, sand, and the faintest sage — colors drawn directly from the Hermès archive of seasonal silk scarves. The outerwear was the collection’s strength: a double-faced cashmere coat with raglan sleeves and no visible branding, a bomber in matte lambskin, and a trench in a new water-repellent cotton weave that has the hand feel of waxed canvas without the weight.
Accessories carried the collection’s more expressive moments. A tote in the house’s signature canvas-and-leather construction was printed with an enlarged detail of a bridle bit, suggesting the equestrian heritage without resorting to literal translation. The footwear — a derby with a slightly elongated toe and a thin leather sole — was typical Hermès: expensive, subtle, and built to outlast its owner.
