LAD/, one of the most eagerly anticipated newcomers on the WWD Ones to Watch roster, brought its distinctive vision to the Paris Fashion Week Men’s calendar this season with a Spring/Summer 2027 collection that refused easy categorization. The presentation combined elements of deconstructed tailoring, utilitarian dressing, and an almost sculptural approach to garment construction.
The color story moved between industrial greys, faded blacks, and occasional flashes of safety orange — a palette that referenced workwear and street culture without being trapped by either. Fabrics ranged from heavyweight cottons to lightweight technical nylons, each chosen for its ability to hold the complex shapes the designer had in mind.
LAD/’s approach to proportion was particularly striking. Trousers cut with an exaggerated rise sat high on the waist before falling into wide, almost skirt-like legs, while jackets were cropped short to reveal the layers beneath. The interplay between covered and exposed, structured and loose, created a rhythm that carried through the entire collection.
The collection opened with a series of looks that seemed to question the very premise of a finished garment. Seams were left raw in places, linings became outer layers, and fastenings appeared where they were least expected. The effect was not careless but deliberate — a meditation on the process of making that most brands prefer to keep hidden.
