Warren Steven Scott’s first menswear collection arrives with the swagger of a late-night Italian talk show host circa 1983. The Toronto-born, London-based designer has built a womenswear following on sculptural knits and controlled draping; his leap into men’s reads as a deliberate shift in register — louder, looser, more libidinous.
Retail interest has been strong. Scott’s direct-to-consumer model, bolstered by a loyal Instagram following cultivated during his Central Saint Martins years, means this collection will reach buyers who have already bought into his knitwear universe. The question is whether a new male customer will follow.
If this debut is any indication, the answer is likely yes.
Knitwear — his established strength — appeared as sheer polos in burnt orange and cobalt, the fabric light enough to suggest skin beneath. He layered them under unlined blazers, a styling trick that tempers the formality of the jacket with the insouciance of a beach vacation.
Trousers came full and pleated, often cropped at the ankle to reveal patterned socks and a streamlined loafer. The silhouette is generous without being sloppy; Scott understands that volume requires structure to avoid collapsing into costume.
