Acne Studios turned its attention to the modern workplace for Spring/Summer 2027, presenting a menswear collection that reimagines office dressing through a lens of individual expression rather than corporate conformity. The show, staged on June 24 during Paris Men’s Fashion Week at a venue styled like a fluorescent-lit open-plan office, proposed a wardrobe where a tailoring classic sits next to a deconstructed hoodie without hierarchy.
The color story stayed largely within an architect’s palette: charcoal, dove gray, ivory, navy, and washed black, with occasional punctuation in oxidized copper and faded rust. The restraint in color allowed the play of proportion to take center stage—an exaggerated shoulder here, a cropped trouser there, a sleeve that extended past the knuckle before being rolled back.
The collection’s central thesis is that the uniform no longer exists. In its place, Acne offered a mixed vocabulary of dressing: a sharply cut single-breasted jacket in lightweight virgin wool worn over a faded band tee; tailored trousers with an easy, almost pajama-like drape paired with technical sneakers; a deconstructed shirt that wrapped and tied rather than buttoned. The silhouette ranged from sharp and narrow to soft and oversized, often within the same look.
Creative director Jonny Johansson described the collection as ‘a conversation between the formal and the personal.’ That dialogue played out in the fabric choices: compact wools and crisp poplins sitting alongside washed linens and slubbed silks that had the rumpled ease of a garment that has been lived in. Textures—herringbone, birdseye, a faint pinstripe—added a layer of traditional office vocabulary that the deconstructed shapes then subverted.
The broader menswear market has been moving in two directions: toward extreme tailoring (the Thom Browne silhouette) and toward total ease (the Loro Piana quiet-luxury uniform). Acne’s SS27 sits in the gap between them, proposing that the office can accommodate both a structured jacket and a relaxed pant, a formal fabric and a personal gesture. It is a plausible vision of how men actually want to dress—and, increasingly, how they are.
