Israeli designer Hed Mayner returned to the Paris Men’s calendar on Saturday with a Spring-Summer 2027 collection that refined his signature language of exaggerated volume and monastic ease. The show, held in a sun-drenched courtyard in the 3rd arrondissement, offered a meditation on how oversize proportions can feel intimate rather than imposing.
Mayner’s trademark wide-shouldered jackets appeared in washed linens and creased cottons that softened the architectural silhouette. Trousers were cut to puddle at the ankle, belted low on the hip, creating a silhouette that was simultaneously grand and relaxed. The effect was less about power dressing than about inhabiting space differently.
The palette stayed within Mayner’s familiar range of sand, ivory, khaki, and black, with a single khaki-green suit that read almost as a neutral. Accessories were minimal—leather sandals, drawstring bags in buffed calfskin—allowing the volume and drape of the garments to carry the narrative.
The collection introduced a new focus on lightweight outerwear—a double-faced wool coat that wrapped like a robe, a nylon anorak treated to feel like paper, a canvas field jacket with proportionally enormous pockets. These were clothes designed for the specific conditions of a Mediterranean summer: hot days, cool evenings, and the need to carry nothing but what fits in your pockets.
Textiles were the collection’s quiet hero. Mayner worked with a family-run mill in Biella to develop a crinkled linen-cotton blend that held its shape without ironing. A hand-loomed cotton from a cooperative in Gujarat appeared in several looks, its subtle irregularities providing texture that industrial fabrics cannot replicate.
