Pauline Dujancourt, the London-based French designer who won the 2026 ANDAM Special Prize, has joined Dover Street Market’s Paris-based brand development program, marking the next chapter for a designer whose intricate hand-knit constructions have earned her a dedicated following among the industry’s most discerning buyers. The program, which provides emerging designers with retail space, mentorship, and operational support, will host Dujancourt’s collection within DSM’s iconic Paris location.
Dujancourt’s signing reflects Dover Street Market’s continued commitment to its role as an incubator for unconventional talent. Unlike department stores that prioritize established luxury brands, DSM has built its reputation on identifying designers before the mainstream catches on — a strategy that has launched the retail careers of Rei Kawakubo protégés, Central Saint Martins graduates, and self-taught provocateurs alike.
The ANDAM prize, awarded to Dujancourt in June, came with a €300,000 grant and a mentorship from the French fashion establishment. The DSM program extends that institutional support into the retail sphere, giving the designer a physical platform in Paris — the city that remains fashion’s commercial and cultural capital — without the overhead of a standalone boutique. For emerging designers navigating a punishing retail environment, such partnerships have become essential bridges between critical acclaim and commercial viability.
For Dujancourt, the placement offers something more specific: access to the international customers who treat DSM Paris as a pilgrimage destination. Her intricate knits, which demand close inspection to reveal their construction, benefit from the kind of tactile engagement that only physical retail can provide. In an industry increasingly dominated by digital selling, that in-person encounter remains irreplaceable for craft-driven design.
Dujancourt’s work resists easy categorization. Her garments begin as hand-knitted textile panels, constructed from unorthodox fiber blends that combine luxury natural fibers with technical yarns. The resulting fabrics have a sculptural quality — they hold their shape independently of the body, creating silhouettes that feel both organic and architectural. Each piece requires days of handwork, positioning her output at the intersection of craft and avant-garde design.
