Guram Gvasalia has never been one to play by fashion’s unspoken rules, and his Spring 2027 collection for Vetements, shown during Paris Men’s Fashion Week, doubled down on the house’s trademark irreverence. The runway at the Théâtre Le Palace unfolded as a parade of recognizable archetypes—the trench coat, the biker jacket, the striped shirt—each subverted by a detail that turned familiarity into friction.
The collection’s palette was deliberate in its restraint: black, cream, khaki, with flashes of high-vis orange and safety yellow that punctured the sobriety. Gvasalia described the show notes as “a summary of childhood memories, war traumas, hidden desires, and a twisted imagination,” and the garments bore the weight of that autobiography. A motocross jacket was embroidered with floral motifs. A trench was spliced with technical mesh panels that revealed the lining beneath.
In a fashion moment dominated by the buzz of generative AI, Gvasalia positioned this collection as an explicit counterpoint. “The collection is actually anti-AI,” he said backstage. “Quality can only be done by human hands.” The sentiment was embodied in the collection’s most labor-intensive pieces—a hand-painted denim jacket, a silk shirt with hand-rolled seams, a leather biker assembled from nineteen separate pattern pieces.
The show closed with a sequence of evening looks that felt like a new direction for the house: draped silk column dresses on men, tailoring that flirted with androgyny, and one finale look that was essentially a black wool greatcoat of such precise construction that it read as a manifesto for the value of expertise. In a season of debuts and declarations, Gvasalia’s message was quietly radical: make things well, and the rest will follow.
